Frequently Asked Questions

Nationally, HomeGuide puts installed epoxy at $4 to $10 per square foot. For a 500 square foot floor, that lands near $2,000 to $5,000 before extra prep, and the same guide shows about $1,600 to $5,800 for a two-car garage. Old paint removal, crack repair and flake or metallic finishes push the total up, which is why we only price a floor once we have seen it.

It does. Epoxy wants a clean, dry, properly ground slab, and trapped moisture or oil under it leads to blisters or peeling. HomeGuide says standard epoxy may need as long as a week to cure fully and gives it a poor to fair UV rating, so sun can yellow it. A glossy surface can also get slippery when wet. Grinding, a moisture test, texture in the finish and a topcoat that holds up to UV address each one.

It depends on the floor. For sunny garages and outdoor surfaces, polyaspartic is often the better choice because it earns an excellent UV resistance rating from HomeGuide and cures in about a day or two. Epoxy is still a strong, thick base coat and works well indoors. Many of our systems combine the two: epoxy underneath for build, polyaspartic on top for sun resistance.

Sometimes. If the moisture test shows vapor coming up through the slab, we use a primer made for that condition before the main coats. If water is actually entering the space, such as through a door threshold or a crack during storms, that has to be solved first, because no coating will hold back standing water.

Many do, but most require approval first. Buildings often set work hours, want the elevator booked and pads installed, and may ask for paperwork before a crew arrives. Share your building's rules up front and we will build the schedule to fit them.

Standard interior epoxy is not, because the sun breaks it down. Outdoor concrete needs a UV-stable system, usually polyaspartic or an epoxy base with a UV-stable topcoat, plus texture so it is safe when wet. Our Terrace & Pool Deck Coatings page goes into the options.

That depends on the system and the weather. According to HomeGuide, polyaspartic needs about 24 to 48 hours until it can take heavy vehicles, while epoxy should go 2 to 7 days without cars on it. Before we leave, you get the exact times for your floor.

HomeGuide's national figures are about $1,600 to $5,800 for a two-car garage in epoxy and $2,000 to $6,900 in polyaspartic. Removing old paint, filling cracks and adding a moisture primer change the total. Once we have measured and tested your floor, you get a written price.

A coating will not keep water out, but it stops the concrete from soaking up water, silt and anything carried in with it, so cleanup is faster. If water comes in often, it is worth fixing the threshold or drainage as well. We look at that during the estimate.

Most kits are thin, water-based products over an acid-etched floor. Etching does not remove oil, sealer or weak surface concrete, and many kits go on without a moisture test. In a humid climate, those shortcuts usually show up as peeling in the tire paths.

Not for parking. HomeGuide advises keeping cars off epoxy for 2 to 7 days and says polyaspartic can take heavy vehicles after roughly 24 to 48 hours. Walking on it is usually fine sooner. You get exact times from us before we leave.

A smooth, glossy finish can be. Flake broadcast floors give more grip, and a fine anti-slip additive can also go into the topcoat. For garages that get rain under the door, we usually suggest one of those two.

A flake floor is a type of epoxy or resin floor. The base coat is usually epoxy or polyaspartic, the chips are vinyl, and the clear topcoat is what you walk on. The flake mainly adds texture, hides dirt and changes the look.

A full-broadcast chip floor has more texture than a smooth coating, so it gives better grip when wet. Where rain or pool water gets tracked in, a fine anti-slip grit can also be mixed into the topcoat.

Clear sand and dust with a broom or leaf blower, then damp-mop using warm water mixed with a pH-neutral cleaner. Wipe up oil and pool chemicals soon after they spill. Avoid harsh degreasers and acid cleaners, which can dull the topcoat.

Not over the paint itself. Old paint and kit coatings get ground away so the new base bonds straight to bare concrete. That removal is part of the prep and is listed as a separate line on your quote.

Mid-tone blends with a mix of grays, tans and a little black hide the most. Very light floors show tire marks, and very dark floors show dust and get warmer in the sun. At the estimate we lay sample chips on your actual floor, letting you weigh a few blends side by side in that light.

For sun-exposed and outdoor floors, usually yes. HomeGuide gives polyaspartic an excellent UV resistance rating and epoxy a poor to fair one, and polyaspartic cures in about 1 to 2 days. Epoxy builds more thickness per coat, so many systems put epoxy down first and finish with polyaspartic.

HomeGuide puts heavy vehicle traffic at about 24 to 48 hours after application, and Bob Vila lists walking after 3 to 4 hours and vehicles after 24 hours. The exact time depends on the product and the temperature and humidity that day, and we give you the times before we leave.

Bob Vila's guide says polyaspartic is not a DIY product. It sets fast, so it must be mixed and spread within a short window, and errors are tough to correct after it cures. Proper grinding also calls for equipment most homeowners do not own.

HomeGuide gives polyaspartic a lifespan of 10 to 20 years or more. Where a given floor lands in that range depends mostly on the prep beneath it and the wear it sees.

It can, with texture added for wet feet and a lighter color to limit heat. Pool decks also need careful prep around drains and coping. See our Terrace & Pool Deck Coatings page for the outdoor options.

This Old House puts metallic epoxy at roughly $5 to $12 per square foot. Prep for old tile adhesive, heavy repair, extra pigment colors and upgraded topcoats move a floor toward the upper end. We quote in writing after seeing the slab.

Wet gloss can be slippery. For kitchens, pool entries and garages, a fine anti-slip grit can be blended into the topcoat, or a satin finish can be used for better grip.

Standard epoxy can yellow and shift under strong sunlight; HomeGuide rates its UV resistance poor to fair. For rooms with big windows, the topcoat we choose is UV stable and we suggest pigments that hold up better. Shades and window film help too.

Often yes, once the old flooring is removed and the building agrees. Many associations set rules for noise, odor and work hours, and some have sound rules for floors. Check with your association first, and we will plan the work around what it allows.

Not exactly, because every metallic floor is worked by hand and the pigment moves as it settles. Sample boards and photos of color combinations show you the range, and we talk through the effect you want before the pour.

According to HomeAdvisor, 100% solids systems for commercial and industrial use start at about $12 per square foot. Large open warehouses can fall differently than small rooms with lots of edges, and moisture mitigation adds cost. We quote after a site walk.

In most cases, yes: we split the work into sections and schedule it for nights or weekends. Faster-curing polyaspartic topcoats can cut downtime to a day or two per section. The plan is written into the proposal.

A textured, chemical-resistant resin system with coves at the walls works well in many kitchens. Hot water washdown and grease need the right product, so we look at your cleaning routine and drains before recommending one.

A sealer soaks into the concrete or leaves a thin film, and mainly reduces dusting and staining. A coating builds a bonded layer on top, measured in mils, which protects against wear, chemicals and impact. Warehouses and shops usually need a coating.

Yes. Aisle lines, pedestrian walkways and forklift zones can be applied as part of the coating job. Planning them during the estimate keeps the layout right.

HomeGuide's figures: Kool Deck about $4 to $6 per square foot, with epoxy running $4 to $10, decorative overlays $6 to $12 and stamped overlays $7 to $20. Sealing alone is about $1 to $3 per square foot. Crack repair, drainage fixes and coping work add to those.

Not standard interior epoxy, which yellows and breaks down in the sun. Outdoors we use a UV-stable system such as polyaspartic, with texture for traction. On a covered lanai, flake works well as long as the topcoat is UV stable.

According to HomeGuide, Kool Deck is non-slip and helps lower surface temperature. In any system, lighter colors stay cooler than dark ones. At the estimate we bring options so you can touch the textures yourself.

Often, but the building usually decides. Many associations control colors, products and timing, and balconies may have waterproofing that needs protecting. If we see cracks, rust stains or spalling, we flag them to you and the building before any coating work.

The dry months outside the May to October wet season give the most reliable weather windows. Outdoor work can still be done in summer, but we plan for afternoon storms and may move days.